No town on this coast has changed faster, or divides travellers more, than Sihanoukville. A sleepy beach resort for decades, it was transformed in a few short years by a wave of casino building, and the result is a city still finding its feet. For most visitors, though, it is simply the door to the islands, and that it does well.
The port and the piers
Sihanoukville is the coast's main hub. This is where the fast boats leave for Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem, where the buses and trains from Phnom Penh arrive, and where the region's airport sits. The city centre is brash and busy, more functional than charming, but the piers are efficient and the connections are the best on the coast. Many travellers spend a night here at most, and point themselves at the water.
The quieter edges
The city keeps its better side on its fringes. South of the centre, Otres remains a long, mellow stretch of sand that feels a world away from the cranes, and Ream National Park begins just beyond. Independence Beach and the old Sokha stretch still catch a good sunset. If you give Sihanoukville a chance beyond its loud middle, the coast it is built on is still there.
A town in transition
It is fair to be honest about the place. The building boom left scars, and parts of the city feel unfinished. But it is also energetic and changing, and the surrounding coast and islands remain gorgeous. Treat Sihanoukville as the practical gateway it is, use it, enjoy its edges, and move on to the water refreshed.
How to be here
Arrive, sort your island boat, and either push straight on to Koh Rong or decamp to Otres for a gentler night. Keep your expectations of the centre modest and your eyes on the sea, and Sihanoukville does its job perfectly well.